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		<title>Jorge de las Abejas!</title>
		<link>http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php</link>
		<description>Adam Ebert's Adventures in Beekeeping and Raising Queens at the Ebert Honey Company in Lynnville, Iowa.</description>
		<language>en-US</language>
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		<ttl>60</ttl>
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			<title>Honey Sales and Beekeeping</title>
			<link>http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/08/29/honey-sales-and-beekeeping</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 29 Aug 2010 14:37:10 +0000</pubDate>			<dc:creator>Jorge</dc:creator>
			<category domain="main">Beekeeping</category>			<guid isPermaLink="false">105@http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/</guid>
						<description>&lt;p&gt;My favorite part of our business is taking care of bees.  They're just interesting--it's so much fun that we forgive them for inflicting a little pain from time to time &lt;img src=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/rsc/smilies/icon_smile.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;#58;&amp;#41;&quot; class=&quot;middle&quot; /&gt; Most of our revenue, however, comes from honey sales.  &lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Our dad started out with a hobby business that mostly sold out of the family home outside of Fairfield (IA).  After a move to Lynnville and a daily commute to Des Moines, he gradually picked up a number of grocery stores where we still market &quot;Pure Iowa Honey&quot;.  He still does most of the distribution by running our delivery routes on alternate weeks.  Alex and I handle some of the deliveries from time to time.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Here is the storefront of our latest grocery store: Coralville Hy-Vee in Lantern Park Plaza.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;div class=&quot;image_block&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//Coralville Hy-Vee2010.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; title=&quot;&quot; width=&quot;450&quot; height=&quot;215&quot; /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;

&lt;p&gt;It's a satisfying feeling to see your honey on the shelf, and grocery stores are often willing to let in a local producer to fill a niche on the shelf.  The thing to remember is that managers hate to see shelf space go empty.  If it happens too much, be prepared to see a new product that has replaced yours when you do get around to checking.  &lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;One other thing about marketing honey in little bottles with tidy labels on a grocery store shelf has always been a bit strange to me: The transition of honey going from a box carried on a hot summer day into a bottle sitting on a shelf in the middle of winter.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;div class=&quot;image_block&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//Honey Super Carried.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; title=&quot;&quot; width=&quot;210&quot; height=&quot;280&quot; /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;item_footer&quot;&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;small&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/08/29/honey-sales-and-beekeeping&quot;&gt;Original post&lt;/a&gt; blogged on &lt;a href=&quot;http://b2evolution.net/&quot;&gt;b2evolution&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/small&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My favorite part of our business is taking care of bees.  They're just interesting--it's so much fun that we forgive them for inflicting a little pain from time to time <img src="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/rsc/smilies/icon_smile.gif" alt="&#58;&#41;" class="middle" /> Most of our revenue, however, comes from honey sales.  </p>

<p>Our dad started out with a hobby business that mostly sold out of the family home outside of Fairfield (IA).  After a move to Lynnville and a daily commute to Des Moines, he gradually picked up a number of grocery stores where we still market "Pure Iowa Honey".  He still does most of the distribution by running our delivery routes on alternate weeks.  Alex and I handle some of the deliveries from time to time.</p>

<p>Here is the storefront of our latest grocery store: Coralville Hy-Vee in Lantern Park Plaza.</p>

<div class="image_block"><img src="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//Coralville Hy-Vee2010.jpg" alt="" title="" width="450" height="215" /></div>

<p>It's a satisfying feeling to see your honey on the shelf, and grocery stores are often willing to let in a local producer to fill a niche on the shelf.  The thing to remember is that managers hate to see shelf space go empty.  If it happens too much, be prepared to see a new product that has replaced yours when you do get around to checking.  </p>

<p>One other thing about marketing honey in little bottles with tidy labels on a grocery store shelf has always been a bit strange to me: The transition of honey going from a box carried on a hot summer day into a bottle sitting on a shelf in the middle of winter.</p>

<div class="image_block"><img src="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//Honey Super Carried.jpg" alt="" title="" width="210" height="280" /></div><div class="item_footer"><p><small><a href="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/08/29/honey-sales-and-beekeeping">Original post</a> blogged on <a href="http://b2evolution.net/">b2evolution</a>.</small></p></div>]]></content:encoded>
								<comments>http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/08/29/honey-sales-and-beekeeping#comments</comments>
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			<title>Drone frames and varroa control</title>
			<link>http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/08/22/drone-frames-and-varroa-control</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 22 Aug 2010 13:14:24 +0000</pubDate>			<dc:creator>Jorge</dc:creator>
			<category domain="main">Beekeeping</category>			<guid isPermaLink="false">104@http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/</guid>
						<description>&lt;p&gt;We are making some progress on mite control for this fall.  We stripped the boxes off two more yards yesterday, gave them Apiguard, and went to two other yards to give their second treatment of Apiguard.  One of the good things about treating in August is that warmer temperatures make the bees more active and the Apiguard disappears quickly.  In one location near Montezuma, it only took five days for many of the bees to devour the applicator card.  September temperatures can turn much cooler and Apiguard crystals might stay in the hive for ten days or more.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Apiguard is our main mite treatment, but Dad and Alex used some drone frames to capture some of the mites in a few yards back in the springtime.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;div class=&quot;image_block&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//Drone Frame.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; title=&quot;&quot; width=&quot;480&quot; height=&quot;360&quot; /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;

&lt;p&gt;The open space with no foundation invariably gets filled with drone comb, and the queen generally cooperates by laying it full of the burly boys.  Since drones develop for a few more days inside the cell than workers, varroa mites have evolved to prefer drone brood over worker brood.  The idea behind the drone frame is that once the drone cells are capped, a good portion of the mites have found their way into those cells.  The success of the operation depends on pulling out the drone frame before they emerge on the drones' 24th day.  Failing to pull the frame, however, results in actually boosting the varroa population rather than reducing it.  This method is best suited for spring when the bees are typically building comb and inclined to raise large numbers of drones.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;item_footer&quot;&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;small&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/08/22/drone-frames-and-varroa-control&quot;&gt;Original post&lt;/a&gt; blogged on &lt;a href=&quot;http://b2evolution.net/&quot;&gt;b2evolution&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/small&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We are making some progress on mite control for this fall.  We stripped the boxes off two more yards yesterday, gave them Apiguard, and went to two other yards to give their second treatment of Apiguard.  One of the good things about treating in August is that warmer temperatures make the bees more active and the Apiguard disappears quickly.  In one location near Montezuma, it only took five days for many of the bees to devour the applicator card.  September temperatures can turn much cooler and Apiguard crystals might stay in the hive for ten days or more.</p>

<p>Apiguard is our main mite treatment, but Dad and Alex used some drone frames to capture some of the mites in a few yards back in the springtime.</p>

<div class="image_block"><img src="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//Drone Frame.JPG" alt="" title="" width="480" height="360" /></div>

<p>The open space with no foundation invariably gets filled with drone comb, and the queen generally cooperates by laying it full of the burly boys.  Since drones develop for a few more days inside the cell than workers, varroa mites have evolved to prefer drone brood over worker brood.  The idea behind the drone frame is that once the drone cells are capped, a good portion of the mites have found their way into those cells.  The success of the operation depends on pulling out the drone frame before they emerge on the drones' 24th day.  Failing to pull the frame, however, results in actually boosting the varroa population rather than reducing it.  This method is best suited for spring when the bees are typically building comb and inclined to raise large numbers of drones.</p><div class="item_footer"><p><small><a href="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/08/22/drone-frames-and-varroa-control">Original post</a> blogged on <a href="http://b2evolution.net/">b2evolution</a>.</small></p></div>]]></content:encoded>
								<comments>http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/08/22/drone-frames-and-varroa-control#comments</comments>
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			<title>Sticky Boards and Varroa Mites</title>
			<link>http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/08/13/sticky-boards-and-varroa-mites</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 13 Aug 2010 20:09:24 +0000</pubDate>			<dc:creator>Jorge</dc:creator>
			<category domain="main">Beekeeping</category>			<guid isPermaLink="false">103@http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/</guid>
						<description>&lt;p&gt;The rain falls again.  We've had torrential rains overnight all week, and today it is falling during the day.  90+ degrees and high humidity have spawned thunderstorm after thunderstorm.  I was en route to pull honey with Alex when the skies opened again.  Dad started going around with sticky boards a few days ago to assess our varroa load, and it looks like we need to get rolling with stripping the hives and inserting the treatments.  I used to aim for Sept. 1 for that job, but our bees seem much healthier in springtime if we begin treatments in late August.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the sticky board coated with vegetable oil about to go under the hive.  When the mites fall off the bees they are trapped and we can estimate the overall mite load.  (There needs to be a protective screen on the sticky board or the bees will just clean it off, hiding the actual mite count.)&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;div class=&quot;image_block&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//Sticky Board.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; title=&quot;&quot; width=&quot;360&quot; height=&quot;480&quot; /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;

&lt;p&gt;The pallets we've constructed in the past couple of years have screen-bottoms, so we just slide the sticky board onto a couple of slats positioned under the screen.  Then the mites fall through and the bees can't clean off the board.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;div class=&quot;image_block&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//Sticky board insertion.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; title=&quot;&quot; width=&quot;360&quot; height=&quot;480&quot; /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;

&lt;p&gt;For our other styles of bottom, we just paperclip a screen on top of the sticky board.  Sometimes the bees still manage to clean them off when the screen is too tight against the board.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;These days, varroa management is the main issue in keeping bees alive from year to year, so we try to stay on top of the parasite load.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;item_footer&quot;&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;small&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/08/13/sticky-boards-and-varroa-mites&quot;&gt;Original post&lt;/a&gt; blogged on &lt;a href=&quot;http://b2evolution.net/&quot;&gt;b2evolution&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/small&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The rain falls again.  We've had torrential rains overnight all week, and today it is falling during the day.  90+ degrees and high humidity have spawned thunderstorm after thunderstorm.  I was en route to pull honey with Alex when the skies opened again.  Dad started going around with sticky boards a few days ago to assess our varroa load, and it looks like we need to get rolling with stripping the hives and inserting the treatments.  I used to aim for Sept. 1 for that job, but our bees seem much healthier in springtime if we begin treatments in late August.</p>

<p>Here is a picture of the sticky board coated with vegetable oil about to go under the hive.  When the mites fall off the bees they are trapped and we can estimate the overall mite load.  (There needs to be a protective screen on the sticky board or the bees will just clean it off, hiding the actual mite count.)</p>

<div class="image_block"><img src="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//Sticky Board.JPG" alt="" title="" width="360" height="480" /></div>

<p>The pallets we've constructed in the past couple of years have screen-bottoms, so we just slide the sticky board onto a couple of slats positioned under the screen.  Then the mites fall through and the bees can't clean off the board.</p>

<div class="image_block"><img src="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//Sticky board insertion.JPG" alt="" title="" width="360" height="480" /></div>

<p>For our other styles of bottom, we just paperclip a screen on top of the sticky board.  Sometimes the bees still manage to clean them off when the screen is too tight against the board.</p>

<p>These days, varroa management is the main issue in keeping bees alive from year to year, so we try to stay on top of the parasite load.</p><div class="item_footer"><p><small><a href="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/08/13/sticky-boards-and-varroa-mites">Original post</a> blogged on <a href="http://b2evolution.net/">b2evolution</a>.</small></p></div>]]></content:encoded>
								<comments>http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/08/13/sticky-boards-and-varroa-mites#comments</comments>
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			<title>The last full boxes?</title>
			<link>http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/08/07/the-last-full-boxes</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 08 Aug 2010 01:01:26 +0000</pubDate>			<dc:creator>Jorge</dc:creator>
			<category domain="main">Beekeeping</category>			<guid isPermaLink="false">102@http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/</guid>
						<description>&lt;p&gt;Well, we've made it into early August.  The colony average will be respectable, but it will take a few weeks of extracting to find out the exact pounds per hive for 2010.  We pulled the honey off of several yards twice--or even three times.  We know those yards will turn out to have a strong average.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Here is a colony from the edge of New Sharon that got quite full:&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;div class=&quot;image_block&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//Full Honey Super.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; title=&quot;&quot; width=&quot;360&quot; height=&quot;480&quot; /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;

&lt;p&gt;It is satisfying to know that some really full supers await the final pull, but also disappointing that there was not an additional box to keep the hive from filling all the way up.  Several hives in this particular yard had nowhere to put fresh nectar.  I put out an additional box in hopes of an August flow (it happens every few years in our area, and we usually get at least a few pounds of honey from the fall flowers.).  Then again, sometimes the August boxes come off as empty as when we put them on.  Three inches of rain in the past week shut down the main nectar flow, but we have temperatures in the upper eighties and nineties that might give us a chance for a a higher yield in the next couple of weeks.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Anyway, we can't complain about the overall crop.  Given the fact that we got 1-2 inches every few days during the month of July, I wouldn't have been surprised by a 65 lb average.  Hotter summers than 2008 or 2009 helped our bees overcome the excess rain this year.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Here is the same box as above, but from bee-level &lt;img src=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/rsc/smilies/icon_smile.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;#58;&amp;#41;&quot; class=&quot;middle&quot; /&gt;  We'll take these boxes in another week and start giving the hives mite treatments.  The joys of late summer and fall!!!&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;div class=&quot;image_block&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//Bee level super.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; title=&quot;&quot; width=&quot;480&quot; height=&quot;360&quot; /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;item_footer&quot;&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;small&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/08/07/the-last-full-boxes&quot;&gt;Original post&lt;/a&gt; blogged on &lt;a href=&quot;http://b2evolution.net/&quot;&gt;b2evolution&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/small&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Well, we've made it into early August.  The colony average will be respectable, but it will take a few weeks of extracting to find out the exact pounds per hive for 2010.  We pulled the honey off of several yards twice--or even three times.  We know those yards will turn out to have a strong average.</p>

<p>Here is a colony from the edge of New Sharon that got quite full:</p>
<div class="image_block"><img src="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//Full Honey Super.JPG" alt="" title="" width="360" height="480" /></div>

<p>It is satisfying to know that some really full supers await the final pull, but also disappointing that there was not an additional box to keep the hive from filling all the way up.  Several hives in this particular yard had nowhere to put fresh nectar.  I put out an additional box in hopes of an August flow (it happens every few years in our area, and we usually get at least a few pounds of honey from the fall flowers.).  Then again, sometimes the August boxes come off as empty as when we put them on.  Three inches of rain in the past week shut down the main nectar flow, but we have temperatures in the upper eighties and nineties that might give us a chance for a a higher yield in the next couple of weeks.</p>

<p>Anyway, we can't complain about the overall crop.  Given the fact that we got 1-2 inches every few days during the month of July, I wouldn't have been surprised by a 65 lb average.  Hotter summers than 2008 or 2009 helped our bees overcome the excess rain this year.</p>

<p>Here is the same box as above, but from bee-level <img src="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/rsc/smilies/icon_smile.gif" alt="&#58;&#41;" class="middle" />  We'll take these boxes in another week and start giving the hives mite treatments.  The joys of late summer and fall!!!</p>
<div class="image_block"><img src="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//Bee level super.JPG" alt="" title="" width="480" height="360" /></div><div class="item_footer"><p><small><a href="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/08/07/the-last-full-boxes">Original post</a> blogged on <a href="http://b2evolution.net/">b2evolution</a>.</small></p></div>]]></content:encoded>
								<comments>http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/08/07/the-last-full-boxes#comments</comments>
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			<title>Supering Hives</title>
			<link>http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/07/27/supering-hives</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 27 Jul 2010 14:11:52 +0000</pubDate>			<dc:creator>Jorge</dc:creator>
			<category domain="main">Beekeeping</category>			<guid isPermaLink="false">101@http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/</guid>
						<description>&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that a number of people coming to the blog site are looking on information about how to super for honey.  That's a topic that supports numerous philosophies, and they're related to the flow patterns in your particular area.  For us, we want supers on by the end of May and beginning of June.  We usually put out space for 80-120 lbs on the first round of supering.  Then adding additional supers becomes a matter of individual hive performance.  Here are some images that show what we often see as we go around:&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;In this super, the bees are just coming up into the box to store.  The combs on the left are getting &quot;whited&quot; with fresh comb as they poke the first droplets of honey into the combs.  If the box below this super is in the same condition, we would just leave them to get filled and be satisfied with signs of activity.  &lt;/p&gt;

&lt;div class=&quot;image_block&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//Starting to Store.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; title=&quot;&quot; width=&quot;480&quot; height=&quot;360&quot; /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;

&lt;p&gt;In the image below, the bees are getting more serious about storing, but putting most of the honey on the left side of the super--they're just deciding to work the right side too.  Occasionally they like to fill one side of three supers rather than fill entire boxes.  They will eventually work their way across the box if you stop adding supers until they cooperate &lt;img src=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/rsc/smilies/icon_smile.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;#58;&amp;#41;&quot; class=&quot;middle&quot; /&gt;  Moving one of the storing combs to the empty side of the hive will also encourage them to work more of the box.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;div class=&quot;image_block&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//Localized Storing.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; title=&quot;&quot; width=&quot;480&quot; height=&quot;360&quot; /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Below is a strong hive that is whiting the entire box at the same time.  This type of hive can fill the boxes quickly and are the best candidates for drawing foundation when their honey boxes are getting more full.  &lt;/p&gt;

&lt;div class=&quot;image_block&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//Whiting Comb.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; title=&quot;&quot; width=&quot;480&quot; height=&quot;360&quot; /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Drawing foundation is always a bit risky in a honey flow--sometimes a hive will reject the wax-making process and swarm instead.  Then you lose honey and bees.  But, when you have a strong hive that is running low on space in a good honey flow, they will normally come around to drawing wax.  The hive below is the type of hive that I would choose--lots of whiting on the combs, not much space in the honey supers, and not showing the brown/yellow staining suggesting they have been full for a week or two.  Hives that have been full for some time are more likely to swarm if you try to force them onto foundation.  Hopefully the hive below will just continue with their wax secretions on foundation instead of the older combs!&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;div class=&quot;image_block&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//Honey Super.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; title=&quot;&quot; width=&quot;480&quot; height=&quot;360&quot; /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;

&lt;p&gt;[That said, my absolute favorite way of drawing deep foundation is only possible in years with above average honey flows.  I like to harvest the first honey supers from strong hives, and then place the deep foundation directly over the two-deep brood nest with no excluder.  The queen doesn't like laying in the new wax when there are two boxes of dark combs below, so you very rarely get brood in the new-drawn combs and can simply take it as a honey super.--There will be more brood in the new cells if the honey flow drops off.]&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;The super below is not quite totally full--there is a little space in the middle that could be drawn out further.  But noting the abundance of honey and also the burr comb between the top bars shows that the bees would have readily started another super if it had been there.  We probably lost some honey to the brood box as the bees ran low on space.  In the middle of such a strong flow, I would prefer to give this hive two more boxes, which would give us 10-20 days before needing to come back.  One box can fill in 4-7 days on a strong hive in a strong flow.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;div class=&quot;image_block&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//Full Super.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; title=&quot;&quot; width=&quot;480&quot; height=&quot;360&quot; /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;

&lt;p&gt;The key for us is to stay AHEAD of the bees.  If we waited until 700 hives have their boxes full, it would take days to get around with more boxes--and maybe a couple of weeks if we have to extract boxes first before having more empties to go out.  In the meanwhile, we would lose thousands of pounds of honey for lack of storing space.  For example.  Let's say there is a great day when the hives all gain 2 lbs of honey, but the supers are all full.  That means we lose 1400 pounds (2+ barrels) to the brood nest, the queen will have less space to lay her eggs (resulting in less populous hives three weeks out), and swarming impulse is raised.  We want the hives working multiple boxes at the same time and to never get completely full.  I'm becoming optimistic that we will cross the 100 lb average this year but some of the 2010 splits have some catching up to do.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;item_footer&quot;&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;small&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/07/27/supering-hives&quot;&gt;Original post&lt;/a&gt; blogged on &lt;a href=&quot;http://b2evolution.net/&quot;&gt;b2evolution&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/small&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I've noticed that a number of people coming to the blog site are looking on information about how to super for honey.  That's a topic that supports numerous philosophies, and they're related to the flow patterns in your particular area.  For us, we want supers on by the end of May and beginning of June.  We usually put out space for 80-120 lbs on the first round of supering.  Then adding additional supers becomes a matter of individual hive performance.  Here are some images that show what we often see as we go around:</p>

<p>In this super, the bees are just coming up into the box to store.  The combs on the left are getting "whited" with fresh comb as they poke the first droplets of honey into the combs.  If the box below this super is in the same condition, we would just leave them to get filled and be satisfied with signs of activity.  </p>

<div class="image_block"><img src="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//Starting to Store.JPG" alt="" title="" width="480" height="360" /></div>

<p>In the image below, the bees are getting more serious about storing, but putting most of the honey on the left side of the super--they're just deciding to work the right side too.  Occasionally they like to fill one side of three supers rather than fill entire boxes.  They will eventually work their way across the box if you stop adding supers until they cooperate <img src="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/rsc/smilies/icon_smile.gif" alt="&#58;&#41;" class="middle" />  Moving one of the storing combs to the empty side of the hive will also encourage them to work more of the box.</p>

<div class="image_block"><img src="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//Localized Storing.JPG" alt="" title="" width="480" height="360" /></div>

<p>Below is a strong hive that is whiting the entire box at the same time.  This type of hive can fill the boxes quickly and are the best candidates for drawing foundation when their honey boxes are getting more full.  </p>

<div class="image_block"><img src="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//Whiting Comb.JPG" alt="" title="" width="480" height="360" /></div>

<p>Drawing foundation is always a bit risky in a honey flow--sometimes a hive will reject the wax-making process and swarm instead.  Then you lose honey and bees.  But, when you have a strong hive that is running low on space in a good honey flow, they will normally come around to drawing wax.  The hive below is the type of hive that I would choose--lots of whiting on the combs, not much space in the honey supers, and not showing the brown/yellow staining suggesting they have been full for a week or two.  Hives that have been full for some time are more likely to swarm if you try to force them onto foundation.  Hopefully the hive below will just continue with their wax secretions on foundation instead of the older combs!</p>

<div class="image_block"><img src="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//Honey Super.JPG" alt="" title="" width="480" height="360" /></div>

<p>[That said, my absolute favorite way of drawing deep foundation is only possible in years with above average honey flows.  I like to harvest the first honey supers from strong hives, and then place the deep foundation directly over the two-deep brood nest with no excluder.  The queen doesn't like laying in the new wax when there are two boxes of dark combs below, so you very rarely get brood in the new-drawn combs and can simply take it as a honey super.--There will be more brood in the new cells if the honey flow drops off.]</p>

<p>The super below is not quite totally full--there is a little space in the middle that could be drawn out further.  But noting the abundance of honey and also the burr comb between the top bars shows that the bees would have readily started another super if it had been there.  We probably lost some honey to the brood box as the bees ran low on space.  In the middle of such a strong flow, I would prefer to give this hive two more boxes, which would give us 10-20 days before needing to come back.  One box can fill in 4-7 days on a strong hive in a strong flow.</p>

<div class="image_block"><img src="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//Full Super.JPG" alt="" title="" width="480" height="360" /></div>

<p>The key for us is to stay AHEAD of the bees.  If we waited until 700 hives have their boxes full, it would take days to get around with more boxes--and maybe a couple of weeks if we have to extract boxes first before having more empties to go out.  In the meanwhile, we would lose thousands of pounds of honey for lack of storing space.  For example.  Let's say there is a great day when the hives all gain 2 lbs of honey, but the supers are all full.  That means we lose 1400 pounds (2+ barrels) to the brood nest, the queen will have less space to lay her eggs (resulting in less populous hives three weeks out), and swarming impulse is raised.  We want the hives working multiple boxes at the same time and to never get completely full.  I'm becoming optimistic that we will cross the 100 lb average this year but some of the 2010 splits have some catching up to do.</p><div class="item_footer"><p><small><a href="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/07/27/supering-hives">Original post</a> blogged on <a href="http://b2evolution.net/">b2evolution</a>.</small></p></div>]]></content:encoded>
								<comments>http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/07/27/supering-hives#comments</comments>
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			<title>2010 Queen Sales</title>
			<link>http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/07/16/2010-queen-sales</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 16 Jul 2010 14:28:17 +0000</pubDate>			<dc:creator>Jorge</dc:creator>
			<category domain="main">Beekeeping</category>			<guid isPermaLink="false">100@http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/</guid>
						<description>&lt;p&gt;We have a neighbor just west of our place who has allowed us to keep bees in his pasture/timber lot for the past twenty years.  These days we do not use the area for honey production--now it is a queen yard.  &lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Here are some of the 5-frame nucs I've set up to raise the 2010 queens for sale:&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;div class=&quot;image_block&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//QYard2010_02.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; title=&quot;&quot; width=&quot;480&quot; height=&quot;360&quot; /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;

&lt;p&gt;I think I started the queen project back in 2004--experimenting with a few dozen cells to figure out grafting, cell-building, development of the queens, and the art of picking queens off the frames to mark them on the thorax with my handy paint markers. After more than twenty years around bees, I had never picked up a queen until I started producing them. I usually take them by the wings--sometimes by the thorax.  The next step was getting used to catching workers to place as attendants into the queen cages!  &lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;I use the full-sized frame equipment for a few reasons.  The queen nucs pull a lot of deep foundation for us, people are welcome to purchase nucs through the summer, I can use a queen nuc to requeen our own hives, and I get a number of new hives to overwinter when I collapse everything together in late August/September.  But it is true that I generally cut them back to 1-2 frames of bees between queen cycles though--hunting for queens in lots of bees takes minutes rather than seconds.  I've already given the postal employee some free honey for staying late waiting for me to show up with the queen shipments!&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Altogether it has been very educational and usually a lot of fun.  (Two-week runs of bad weather that annihilate all hope of successful matings are what takes the fun out of it.)&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Next year I need to greatly increase production to provide you with the queens in demand--but thanks for the orders to date and I'll continue to produce as many as capacity permits in the next couple of months! &lt;/p&gt;

&lt;div class=&quot;image_block&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//QYard2010_01.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; title=&quot;&quot; width=&quot;480&quot; height=&quot;360&quot; /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;item_footer&quot;&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;small&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/07/16/2010-queen-sales&quot;&gt;Original post&lt;/a&gt; blogged on &lt;a href=&quot;http://b2evolution.net/&quot;&gt;b2evolution&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/small&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We have a neighbor just west of our place who has allowed us to keep bees in his pasture/timber lot for the past twenty years.  These days we do not use the area for honey production--now it is a queen yard.  </p>

<p>Here are some of the 5-frame nucs I've set up to raise the 2010 queens for sale:</p>
<div class="image_block"><img src="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//QYard2010_02.jpg" alt="" title="" width="480" height="360" /></div>

<p>I think I started the queen project back in 2004--experimenting with a few dozen cells to figure out grafting, cell-building, development of the queens, and the art of picking queens off the frames to mark them on the thorax with my handy paint markers. After more than twenty years around bees, I had never picked up a queen until I started producing them. I usually take them by the wings--sometimes by the thorax.  The next step was getting used to catching workers to place as attendants into the queen cages!  </p>

<p>I use the full-sized frame equipment for a few reasons.  The queen nucs pull a lot of deep foundation for us, people are welcome to purchase nucs through the summer, I can use a queen nuc to requeen our own hives, and I get a number of new hives to overwinter when I collapse everything together in late August/September.  But it is true that I generally cut them back to 1-2 frames of bees between queen cycles though--hunting for queens in lots of bees takes minutes rather than seconds.  I've already given the postal employee some free honey for staying late waiting for me to show up with the queen shipments!</p>

<p>Altogether it has been very educational and usually a lot of fun.  (Two-week runs of bad weather that annihilate all hope of successful matings are what takes the fun out of it.)</p>

<p>Next year I need to greatly increase production to provide you with the queens in demand--but thanks for the orders to date and I'll continue to produce as many as capacity permits in the next couple of months! </p>

<div class="image_block"><img src="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//QYard2010_01.jpg" alt="" title="" width="480" height="360" /></div><div class="item_footer"><p><small><a href="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/07/16/2010-queen-sales">Original post</a> blogged on <a href="http://b2evolution.net/">b2evolution</a>.</small></p></div>]]></content:encoded>
								<comments>http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/07/16/2010-queen-sales#comments</comments>
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			<title>2010 Honey Prospects</title>
			<link>http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/07/03/2010-honey-prospects</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 03 Jul 2010 17:14:26 +0000</pubDate>			<dc:creator>Jorge</dc:creator>
			<category domain="main">Beekeeping</category>			<guid isPermaLink="false">99@http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/</guid>
						<description>&lt;p&gt;Back in late May we put out our 6 5/8 honey boxes and started to await the first honey flow.  We often get some kind of surplus going into the overwintered hives somewhere between mid-May and the beginning of June.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Here's an image of a yard setup for supering:  Most of the hives are getting two honey supers, and a few of the splits are ready for a box of deep foundation along with a 2-gallon bucket of syrup.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;div class=&quot;image_block&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//Supering.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; title=&quot;&quot; width=&quot;480&quot; height=&quot;360&quot; /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;

&lt;p&gt;This year the early flow was exceptional--probably the best I've ever seen.  Some of our strongest hives put away 80-120 pounds of honey before the wettest June in Iowa history got underway.  Now we've had about a week of sunshine that has given us hope for a crop off of the 2010 splits as well.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;The good news is that we have already extracted some honey and put the first boxes back out to be filled a second time.  Our last bumper crops were 2005 and 2006--It would be wonderful to break the 100lb/colony mark again.  Unfortunately there is another 1-3 inches of rain in the forecast for the next couple of days which might kill the flow again.  Hopefully we can dodge the heavy precipitation and stay on track for an impressive July.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;item_footer&quot;&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;small&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/07/03/2010-honey-prospects&quot;&gt;Original post&lt;/a&gt; blogged on &lt;a href=&quot;http://b2evolution.net/&quot;&gt;b2evolution&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/small&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Back in late May we put out our 6 5/8 honey boxes and started to await the first honey flow.  We often get some kind of surplus going into the overwintered hives somewhere between mid-May and the beginning of June.</p>

<p>Here's an image of a yard setup for supering:  Most of the hives are getting two honey supers, and a few of the splits are ready for a box of deep foundation along with a 2-gallon bucket of syrup.</p>

<div class="image_block"><img src="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees//Supering.JPG" alt="" title="" width="480" height="360" /></div>

<p>This year the early flow was exceptional--probably the best I've ever seen.  Some of our strongest hives put away 80-120 pounds of honey before the wettest June in Iowa history got underway.  Now we've had about a week of sunshine that has given us hope for a crop off of the 2010 splits as well.</p>

<p>The good news is that we have already extracted some honey and put the first boxes back out to be filled a second time.  Our last bumper crops were 2005 and 2006--It would be wonderful to break the 100lb/colony mark again.  Unfortunately there is another 1-3 inches of rain in the forecast for the next couple of days which might kill the flow again.  Hopefully we can dodge the heavy precipitation and stay on track for an impressive July.</p><div class="item_footer"><p><small><a href="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/07/03/2010-honey-prospects">Original post</a> blogged on <a href="http://b2evolution.net/">b2evolution</a>.</small></p></div>]]></content:encoded>
								<comments>http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/07/03/2010-honey-prospects#comments</comments>
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			<title>Ick!</title>
			<link>http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/04/11/ick</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 12 Apr 2010 04:42:28 +0000</pubDate>			<dc:creator>Alex</dc:creator>
			<category domain="main">Beekeeping</category>			<guid isPermaLink="false">98@http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/</guid>
						<description>&lt;p&gt;This is just rude....and wrong. Spring seems to be here early this year. This is good. Varro Mites, bad. While making splits in the spring we keep an eye out for signs of Varroa Mites. Usually this means checking any drone brood that breaks between the upper and lower hivebody. If we see mites just riding on top of a bee or two it is a cause for concern and investigation. Varroa Mites prefer to stay hidden, so if they are visible while looking at a frame of brood, this can indicate a higher level of mite load than we want to start with in spring.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;This however was a first. I have seen mites hitching a ride on the back of workers before, but never on the Queen. This mite was promptly removed, and the hive was given a mite treatment.&lt;/p&gt;


&lt;div class=&quot;image_block&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees/Queenbee_with_Varroa_Mite_2010.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Varroa Mite ridding on the back of a Queen bee.&quot; title=&quot;Queen bee and a Varroa Mite.&quot; width=&quot;480&quot; height=&quot;360&quot; /&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;image_legend&quot;&gt;This is a sight nobody wants to see. Early spring or fall, the Varroa Mites should just leave the Queen alone.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt; &lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;On a brighter note, this is a picture of the first 12 splits of the year. This is how we make up for our winter losses. Each split is made up of three frames of brood that were set over a Queen excluder on top of the parent colony. The bees are originally shaken from the brood frame into the parent colony. The worker(nurse) bees crawl through the excluder and cover the brood. Usually the next day enough bees have crawled into the split to take it away to another yard and give them a new Queen.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;It's nice to be finding good brood frames in mid April. Even if you only get a couple of weeks of an early start, that is still 2/3 of a brood cycle to build that population up for the summer. A summer we hope all those bees will have a lot of nectar to gather.&lt;/p&gt;



&lt;div class=&quot;image_block&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees/The_First_Splits_of_the_Season_2010.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bee truck loaded with some splits.&quot; title=&quot;Bee truck loaded with some splits.&quot; width=&quot;480&quot; height=&quot;360&quot; /&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;image_legend&quot;&gt;When spring arrives it's time to start splitting the strong hives to make up for the winter death loss.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;item_footer&quot;&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;small&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/04/11/ick&quot;&gt;Original post&lt;/a&gt; blogged on &lt;a href=&quot;http://b2evolution.net/&quot;&gt;b2evolution&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/small&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is just rude....and wrong. Spring seems to be here early this year. This is good. Varro Mites, bad. While making splits in the spring we keep an eye out for signs of Varroa Mites. Usually this means checking any drone brood that breaks between the upper and lower hivebody. If we see mites just riding on top of a bee or two it is a cause for concern and investigation. Varroa Mites prefer to stay hidden, so if they are visible while looking at a frame of brood, this can indicate a higher level of mite load than we want to start with in spring.</p>

<p>This however was a first. I have seen mites hitching a ride on the back of workers before, but never on the Queen. This mite was promptly removed, and the hive was given a mite treatment.</p>


<div class="image_block"><img src="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees/Queenbee_with_Varroa_Mite_2010.jpg" alt="Varroa Mite ridding on the back of a Queen bee." title="Queen bee and a Varroa Mite." width="480" height="360" /><div class="image_legend">This is a sight nobody wants to see. Early spring or fall, the Varroa Mites should just leave the Queen alone.</div></div><p> </p>

<p>On a brighter note, this is a picture of the first 12 splits of the year. This is how we make up for our winter losses. Each split is made up of three frames of brood that were set over a Queen excluder on top of the parent colony. The bees are originally shaken from the brood frame into the parent colony. The worker(nurse) bees crawl through the excluder and cover the brood. Usually the next day enough bees have crawled into the split to take it away to another yard and give them a new Queen.</p>

<p>It's nice to be finding good brood frames in mid April. Even if you only get a couple of weeks of an early start, that is still 2/3 of a brood cycle to build that population up for the summer. A summer we hope all those bees will have a lot of nectar to gather.</p>



<div class="image_block"><img src="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/media/blogs/honeybees/The_First_Splits_of_the_Season_2010.jpg" alt="Bee truck loaded with some splits." title="Bee truck loaded with some splits." width="480" height="360" /><div class="image_legend">When spring arrives it's time to start splitting the strong hives to make up for the winter death loss.</div></div><div class="item_footer"><p><small><a href="http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/04/11/ick">Original post</a> blogged on <a href="http://b2evolution.net/">b2evolution</a>.</small></p></div>]]></content:encoded>
								<comments>http://eberthoney.com/honeybeeblog/blog4.php/2010/04/11/ick#comments</comments>
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